Real Estate FAQ

No law requires it, but most buyers use one because the agent runs the search, prices comps, spots problems, writes and negotiates the offer, and quarterbacks inspections, appraisal, and closing. In South Carolina every closing runs through an attorney, but the attorney handles the legal/title side, not negotiation or strategy.

The real question is whether you want a professional whose job is to represent your interests. If you go without one, you're negotiating against the seller's agent, who works for the seller.

A buyer-agency agreement is a written contract that spells out what your agent will do for you, how long the arrangement lasts, and how they get paid. As of the NAR settlement changes effective August 2024, a buyer must sign a written agreement with their agent before touring homes together. It protects you by putting the terms and the agent's duties in writing.

The agreement is negotiable — the term length, the services, the compensation, and whether it covers one property or a whole area are all things you can discuss before signing.

Buyer-agent compensation is negotiable and must be disclosed up front. Your buyer-agency agreement states what you owe your agent. Separately, the seller may choose to offer to cover some or all of that compensation, and buyers often ask for that as a term of the offer — but it is no longer assumed or advertised in the MLS the old way. See the NAR settlement FAQs.

Bottom line: you'll know your agent's fee before you tour, and how it gets paid (seller concession, built into the deal, or paid by you) is part of the negotiation.

All real estate commissions are, and always have been, fully negotiable — there is no standard or legally set rate. Post-settlement, the buyer-side and listing-side fees are negotiated separately and disclosed. Ask any agent to explain their fee and what you get for it.

Focus on value, not just the number: the right agent's negotiation and problem-solving often save more than their fee.

A listing agent represents the seller; a buyer's agent represents the buyer. 'REALTOR' is a trademarked term for a licensed agent who belongs to the National Association of REALTORS and agrees to its Code of Ethics — not every licensee is one. In South Carolina, all agents are licensed and regulated by the SC Real Estate Commission.

Dual agency is when the same agent (or brokerage) represents both the buyer and the seller in the same transaction. South Carolina allows it only with written informed consent from both parties, and the agent's ability to advocate for either side is limited because they can't favor one over the other. SC also offers a 'designated agency' model where two different agents in the same firm each represent one side.

You're never required to accept dual agency. If you're uncomfortable, you can ask for your own dedicated representation.

Yes, and it's common — one agent coordinating both sides can make the timing far smoother. One agent handling your sale and your purchase is two separate transactions, not dual agency — but if that same agent also represented the buyer of your home, that would be dual (or designated) agency in the sale and requires written informed consent under SC law. We'll map out the timing (sell-first vs. buy-first, bridge options, rent-back) as part of the plan.

Roughly: get pre-approved, sign a buyer-agency agreement, search and tour, write an offer, go under contract, deposit earnest money, complete inspections and appraisal, secure final loan approval, do a final walkthrough, then close at a South Carolina attorney's office where you sign and get keys. Start to close is often around 30-45 days once you're under contract, faster for cash.

Look for someone who knows your specific markets — Charleston, Beaufort, and Columbia/Lake Murray each behave differently, and coastal factors like flood zones, wind insurance, and elevation add real complexity. Ask how many transactions they've closed in your area, how they handle multiple offers, and how they communicate. A local specialist beats a generalist when coastal risk is on the line.

Pre-qualification is a quick, informal estimate based on numbers you tell the lender — useful for ballparking. Pre-approval is a formal review where the lender verifies income, assets, and credit and issues a letter stating how much they'll lend. Sellers take pre-approval far more seriously, especially in a competitive offer. The CFPB explains the mortgage process step by step.

It depends on the loan: conventional loans can go as low as 3% down, FHA as low as 3.5%, and VA and USDA can be 0% for those who qualify. Twenty percent down lets you avoid private mortgage insurance on a conventional loan, but plenty of buyers put down less and pay PMI until they build equity. Down payment is separate from closing costs — budget for both.

There's no single cutoff — requirements vary by loan program and lender. Conventional loans generally want higher scores for the best pricing, while FHA is designed to be more forgiving of lower scores. A higher score usually means a lower rate, so even a small improvement before applying can save money. Check your reports free at AnnualCreditReport.com and dispute errors before you apply.

Talk to a lender even if your score isn't perfect — they can often map a path to qualification.

DTI is the share of your gross monthly income that goes to debt payments, including your new mortgage. Lenders use it to judge whether you can comfortably afford the loan; a lower DTI generally makes approval easier. Paying down credit cards or a car loan before applying can improve it. Your lender will tell you the exact thresholds for your program — confirm specifics with them.

Private mortgage insurance protects the lender when you put less than 20% down on a conventional loan; you pay it monthly until you build enough equity. Under federal law it generally must automatically terminate once your loan balance reaches 78% of the original value, and you can usually request cancellation at 80%. The CFPB explains PMI cancellation rules.

Note: FHA mortgage insurance works differently and often can't be canceled the same way — ask your lender.

Conventional loans are the most common and aren't government-insured. FHA loans allow low down payments and easier credit. VA loans offer $0 down for eligible veterans and service members. USDA loans offer $0 down in eligible rural areas — parts of the Lowcountry outside city cores can qualify. Jumbo loans exceed the conforming limit and have stricter requirements.

The right fit depends on your service history, credit, down payment, and the property's location and price.

Loans at or below the conforming limit — currently $832,750 for a one-unit home in most areas — can be sold to Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac and usually get better pricing. Above that, you're in jumbo territory, which typically means stronger credit, more reserves, and a larger down payment. The FHA floor for its low-cost-area limit is currently $541,287. High-cost coastal counties can carry higher limits.

A rate lock guarantees your interest rate for a set period (often 30-60 days) while you finish the loan, protecting you if rates rise. If rates fall, some lenders offer a one-time 'float down.' For reference, quoted rates hover around 6.60% for a 30-year and 5.80% for a 15-year, but they move daily — compare rates and shop lenders via the CFPB. Lock timing is a judgment call; your lender will advise based on your closing date.

Points are an upfront fee — one point equals 1% of the loan amount — paid to lower your interest rate. They make sense if you'll keep the loan long enough for the monthly savings to exceed the upfront cost (your 'break-even'). If you might move or refinance soon, points often aren't worth it. Ask your lender to run the break-even math for your scenario.

Yes. SC Housing runs programs that can help eligible buyers with down payment and closing costs, and some are geared toward first-time buyers. Local and lender-specific programs exist too. Eligibility depends on income, price limits, and sometimes the county — confirm current terms directly with SC Housing or an approved lender.

Yes, though documentation is heavier — lenders typically want two years of tax returns, profit-and-loss statements, and bank statements to establish stable income. They average your net (post-deduction) income, so aggressive write-offs can lower what you qualify for. Some lenders offer bank-statement loan programs for self-employed borrowers. Talk to a lender early so you know how they'll calculate your income.

Usually 60-90 days, because it relies on a recent credit pull and current financials. If your search runs long, your lender can refresh it. Avoid big financial changes while shopping — new debt, large deposits, or a job change can all affect approval.

Rate shopping in a short window (commonly treated as a single event by scoring models) is designed to have minimal impact, so comparing lenders is encouraged. What hurts is opening lots of new, unrelated credit accounts. It's worth getting more than one Loan Estimate — you can compare them side by side using the CFPB's guide.

Yes — and post-NAR, you'll sign a buyer-agency agreement before touring anyway, so it's the natural time. Pre-approval tells you your real budget, strengthens your offers, and prevents falling for a home you can't finance. Sellers in a competitive Lowcountry market often won't consider an offer without a pre-approval letter attached.

Contingencies are conditions that must be met or you can back out (usually with your earnest money) — the most common are financing, appraisal, inspection, and sometimes the sale of your current home. They protect you, but each one can make your offer less attractive to a seller. The art is keeping the protections you truly need while staying competitive.

Earnest money is a good-faith deposit (often 1-2% of the price, negotiable) that shows the seller you're serious; it's held by the closing attorney or brokerage and applied to your costs at closing. It's generally refundable if you back out for a reason your contract protects — like a failed inspection or financing within the contingency windows. If you walk for no contractual reason, you can lose it. Never wire earnest money without verifying instructions by phone.

An escalation clause says you'll automatically beat competing offers by a set increment up to a maximum you specify. It can win a bidding war without overpaying blindly, but it also reveals your ceiling and requires proof of the competing offer. It's a tool for hot listings, not every offer — we'll decide together whether it fits the situation.

'As-is' means the seller won't make repairs or give repair credits — you take the property in its current condition. It does not mean you give up your right to inspect (unless you separately waive that). You can still inspect and, depending on your contract, walk away if you find something you can't live with. Read the exact language; 'as-is' terms vary.

Price is only one lever. A clean offer — strong pre-approval, reasonable contingencies, flexible closing date, solid earnest money — can beat a slightly higher but messier one. Escalation clauses, appraisal-gap coverage, and a personal but Fair-Housing-compliant approach all help. We'll build a strategy from what the seller actually values, not guesswork.

Set your walk-away number in advance so emotion doesn't push you past your budget.

You can offer whatever you want, but a lowball on a well-priced, in-demand home often gets ignored or countered high — and can cost you the property. On an overpriced or long-sitting listing, a lower offer backed by comps can be perfectly reasonable. The key is anchoring your number to market data (see current market stats at /market), not to a wish.

A home-sale contingency lets you make your purchase conditional on selling your current home first, protecting you from owning two houses. Sellers may resist it in a competitive market because it adds uncertainty. Alternatives include bridge financing, a HELOC, or negotiating a rent-back so you can close first and move on your timeline — we'll compare the options for your situation.

There's no magic number — some buyers know on the first, others need a dozen. Touring helps calibrate what your budget really buys in each area. In a fast market, waiting too long can mean losing 'the one,' so it's worth getting pre-approved and clear on must-haves early so you can move decisively.

You go 'under contract': you deliver earnest money, then move through your contingency timeline — inspections, appraisal, loan processing, title work — each with deadlines. Missing a deadline can weaken your protections, so we track them closely. It ends with a final walkthrough and closing at the attorney's office.

Usually yes, if you exercise a contingency within its deadline — for example, canceling during the inspection period or if financing falls through under the financing contingency. Backing out for no contractual reason can cost you your earnest money and, in some cases, expose you to other claims. This is a legal question specific to your contract; confirm with your closing attorney.

A general inspection is a visual, non-invasive check of the home's major systems and components — roof, structure, foundation, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and more — to flag defects and safety issues. It's not a pass/fail or a code inspection, and inspectors don't open walls. It gives you information to negotiate repairs, ask for credits, or walk away within your inspection window.

A CL-100 (the 'Wood Infestation Report') is a South Carolina inspection for wood-destroying organisms — termites and fungus/moisture damage — and lenders, especially on VA loans, often require it. The Lowcountry's heat and humidity make termites and moisture damage genuinely common, so this inspection matters here more than in drier regions. Budget for it and take moisture findings seriously.

Who pays for the CL-100 and any treatment is negotiable in the contract.

It's risky. Waiving inspection means buying blind to defects that could cost tens of thousands — foundation, roof, HVAC, or hidden moisture damage. In competitive situations there are middle grounds: an information-only inspection (you inspect but agree not to ask for repairs) keeps your eyes open while strengthening the offer. Waiving entirely should be a last resort, made with full awareness of the downside.

Once you have the report, you can request repairs, a price reduction, or a closing-cost credit — or accept the home as-is. Sellers can agree, counter, or decline. Credits are often cleaner than seller repairs because you control the work and quality afterward. Focus on safety and big-ticket items; nickel-and-diming small stuff can sour a deal you want.

Beyond the general inspection and CL-100, consider a roof/wind evaluation, an HVAC and moisture/mold assessment, and — for waterfront or older homes — a dedicated structural or elevation review. If the home has a dock, septic, well, or crawl space, add those specialists. Coastal salt air, humidity, and storm exposure make these worth the cost.

An appraisal is an independent estimate of the home's market value, ordered by your lender to make sure they're not lending more than the property is worth. You typically pay for it as part of closing costs. It protects the lender, but it also protects you from overpaying beyond appraised value.

If the appraisal is below your contract price, your lender will only finance based on the lower value, creating a gap. Your options: renegotiate the price with the seller, cover the difference in cash (an 'appraisal gap'), split it, challenge the appraisal with better comps, or — if you have an appraisal contingency — walk away with your earnest money. Which move is smart depends on the market and how much you want the home.

It's a promise in your offer to cover a shortfall between the appraised value and the contract price, up to a stated amount, in cash. It reassures sellers in competitive markets that a low appraisal won't sink the deal. Only offer it if you actually have the cash and are comfortable spending it — it's real money on top of your down payment.

Yes, and it's a great idea. Walking the home with the inspector helps you understand findings in context, learn where the shutoffs and systems are, and separate 'big deal' from 'cosmetic.' You'll get a written report afterward, but the live walkthrough is often the most educational part of buying.

South Carolina is an 'attorney-closing state,' meaning a licensed South Carolina attorney must supervise the real estate closing — including the title search, preparation and recording of documents, and disbursement of funds. This is different from many states that use title or escrow companies. The attorney makes sure the transfer is legally sound and the money moves correctly.

You generally get to choose your closing attorney; ask your agent for trusted local options.

They run the title search to confirm the seller can legally sell and the property is free of unexpected liens, prepare and review the deed and closing documents, coordinate with your lender, conduct the signing, record the deed with the county, and disburse funds to the right parties. They represent the transaction's legal integrity — for advice on your personal interests, you can ask questions but should understand whom they represent.

Title insurance protects against covered losses from title defects — undiscovered liens, ownership disputes, forgery, or recording errors — that a search might miss. A lender's policy is typically required by your mortgage; an owner's policy (optional but wise) protects your equity. It's a one-time premium at closing, not a recurring bill. The CFPB explains title insurance.

Closing costs are the fees to finalize the deal — loan fees, appraisal, attorney, title insurance, recording, prepaid taxes and insurance, and more — typically running a few percent of the price for buyers. Who pays what is partly customary and partly negotiable: buyers can ask sellers for a closing-cost credit (a 'seller concession'), and sellers have their own costs like commission and deed prep. Your Loan Estimate and Closing Disclosure itemize everything.

Cash to close is the total amount you must bring to the closing table — your down payment plus closing costs and prepaids, minus your earnest money and any seller credits. It's almost always more than just the down payment, so review your Closing Disclosure early and confirm the exact figure with the attorney before closing day.

The Closing Disclosure is a standardized form detailing your final loan terms, monthly payment, and closing costs. By federal rule, you must receive it at least three business days before closing so you can review it against your Loan Estimate and ask questions — no surprises at the table. Certain major changes can restart the three-day clock. See the CFPB's Closing Disclosure guide.

For a financed purchase, roughly 30-45 days is typical, driven mostly by the lender's timeline for appraisal, underwriting, and final approval. Cash deals can close in a week or two once title work is done. Complications — appraisal issues, title defects, repair disputes — can extend it. We build the timeline into the contract's dates.

Wire fraud is a serious, growing threat: scammers impersonate the attorney or agent by email and send fake wiring instructions. Always confirm wiring details by calling a known, verified phone number — never a number or link from the email — before sending a cent. Be suspicious of any last-minute change to instructions. The FBI warns about real estate wire fraud.

If anything feels off, stop and call. Recovered wire-fraud funds are rare, so prevention is everything.

The final walkthrough, usually just before closing, is your chance to confirm the home is in the agreed condition, agreed repairs were completed, nothing's been damaged since your last visit, and the seller's belongings are out. Test lights, faucets, appliances, and HVAC. If something's wrong, it's far easier to resolve before closing than after.

You'll meet at the attorney's office (or handle it per their process), review and sign the deed, loan, and disclosure documents, bring your cash to close via verified wire or certified funds, and receive the keys once everything is signed and funds are confirmed. Bring a government photo ID. Read what you sign, and ask the attorney to explain anything unclear.

South Carolina assesses owner-occupied primary residences at a 4% ratio and other property — second homes, rentals, investment property — at 6%. That difference is large, so making sure your primary home is correctly classified at the lower ratio matters. Learn more from the SC Department of Revenue and your county assessor.

This is one reason second homes and rentals carry meaningfully higher property-tax bills than a primary residence.

You must apply with your county assessor for the 4% legal-residence (owner-occupied) classification — it isn't automatic when you buy. South Carolina also offers a Homestead Exemption for eligible residents who are 65 or older, or totally and permanently disabled, or legally blind, which can reduce taxable value. Confirm eligibility and deadlines with your county and the SC DOR.

Property taxes are typically split between buyer and seller based on the portion of the year each owns the home, so each pays their share. Because South Carolina bills in arrears and the buyer's classification may differ from the seller's, the exact proration can get nuanced — your closing attorney calculates it on the settlement statement. Ask them to walk you through the numbers.

Standard homeowners insurance covers fire, theft, liability, and many perils — but typically excludes flood, and in coastal areas often excludes or separates out wind/hail. Flood is a separate policy (often via the NFIP or private insurers). Wind/hail coverage may require a separate policy or endorsement near the coast. On the Lowcountry coast you often need all three layers to be truly covered — don't assume one policy handles everything.

Many lenders collect a portion of your annual property taxes and insurance with each mortgage payment and hold it in an escrow account, then pay those bills for you when due. It smooths big annual bills into monthly amounts and ensures they get paid. Your payment can change year to year as taxes and premiums change — coastal insurance increases are a common reason escrow payments rise.

Possibly not on a primary residence. The federal Section 121 exclusion can shield up to $250,000 of gain (single) or $500,000 (married filing jointly) if you owned and lived in the home as your main residence for at least two of the last five years. Second homes, rentals, and short holds don't get the same break. See IRS Publication 523 and confirm your situation with a CPA.

Hurricane, wind, and flood risk drive up premiums (and sometimes deductibles) along the coast, and the market has tightened in recent years. You can manage cost by getting quotes early — before you're under contract — comparing insurers, considering wind-mitigation upgrades, and understanding your flood zone. Factor insurance into affordability from the start; it can meaningfully change your monthly payment.

Mortgage interest and property taxes may be deductible if you itemize, but there are federal limits (including a cap on the state-and-local-tax deduction and on the mortgage balance that qualifies for interest deduction). Whether it benefits you depends on your overall tax picture. This is tax-specific — see the IRS home-ownership tax guidance and confirm with a CPA.

Check FEMA's official flood maps for the property's flood zone designation, and ask the seller and county about any history of flooding. High-risk zones (labeled with an A or V) carry different insurance and building requirements than lower-risk zones. Start with the FEMA Flood Map Service Center. A property's zone directly affects insurance cost and lender requirements.

If your home is in a FEMA high-risk flood zone and you have a federally backed mortgage, your lender will require flood insurance. Even outside high-risk zones it's often wise in the Lowcountry, because a large share of flood claims come from lower-risk areas. Learn more at FloodSmart.gov. Getting a quote before you're committed helps you budget accurately.

An elevation certificate documents a building's elevation relative to the expected flood level, and it can significantly affect flood insurance pricing — a home elevated above the base flood elevation often costs far less to insure. Ask whether the seller has one; if not, one can be ordered. FEMA explains elevation certificates here.

Not necessarily — plenty of desirable Lowcountry homes sit in flood zones and are perfectly good buys when you go in informed. The key is understanding the true cost (flood insurance, possibly a higher deductible), the home's elevation and flood history, and how it might affect resale. Price the risk in, and it can be a sound decision; ignore it, and you can get an unpleasant surprise.

Yes. FEMA updates flood maps over time, so a property's zone can change, and there's a formal process (a Letter of Map Amendment or Revision) to challenge a designation if you believe a structure is wrongly mapped as high-risk. This can lower required insurance. FEMA describes map changes and amendments here. It's technical — a surveyor or specialist usually helps.

The Lowcountry is hurricane country, so evaluate elevation, drainage, roof age and wind rating, window/shutter protection, evacuation zone, and insurance availability. Ask about the home's storm history and any past flood or wind claims. Well-built, well-elevated, properly insured homes weather storms far better — factor resilience into both your offer and your ownership budget.

Sometimes an existing NFIP flood policy can be assumed by the buyer, which can preserve favorable pricing — worth asking about. Cost depends heavily on the flood zone, elevation, coverage amount, and the structure. Because coastal flood premiums vary so much, get a specific quote for the exact property rather than relying on a rule of thumb. Start at FloodSmart.gov.

An agent prepares a comparative market analysis (CMA) — pricing based on recent sales of similar nearby homes, adjusted for condition, features, and market trends. Online estimates are a starting point but often miss local nuance and coastal factors. For a data-backed read on your specific area, see current market stats at /market and ask for a CMA on your address.

Usually not. Overpricing tends to backfire — the home sits, gets stale, and often sells for less than if priced right from the start, when buyer interest is highest. Well-priced homes attract more showings and can even draw competing offers. Data-driven pricing beats 'leaving room' almost every time.

South Carolina generally requires sellers of residential property to provide a Residential Property Condition Disclosure Statement covering known material defects and conditions (there are limited exemptions). Honesty protects you — undisclosed known problems can lead to legal claims later. When in doubt, disclose, and confirm your specific obligations with your closing attorney.

No. Post-settlement, offering buyer-agent compensation is optional and the seller's choice — it's no longer assumed. Many sellers still offer some, because it can widen the buyer pool and buyers frequently ask for it as an offer term. We'll weigh the trade-offs for your specific home and market. See the NAR settlement FAQs.

Your net proceeds are the sale price minus what you owe on the mortgage, your agent's commission, any buyer credits you agree to, closing/attorney costs, prorated taxes, and any repairs. A seller net sheet estimates this before you list so there are no surprises. We'll prepare one for your price scenarios.

It depends on the home and market. Strategic, high-return fixes (paint, cleaning, minor repairs, curb appeal) often pay for themselves, while big renovations may not. Selling truly as-is can attract investors and speed things up but usually means a lower price. We'll identify which improvements move the needle and which to skip.

It varies by price, condition, location, and current demand — which differ across Charleston, Beaufort, and the Columbia/Lake Murray areas. A well-priced, well-presented home in a strong market can go under contract quickly; then closing typically adds 30-45 days for a financed buyer. See current days-on-market and trends at /market.

If it's your primary residence and you meet the ownership-and-use test, the Section 121 exclusion may shield up to $250,000 (single) or $500,000 (married filing jointly) of gain. Investment properties and second homes don't qualify for that exclusion and may face different treatment. This is tax-specific — see IRS Publication 523 and confirm with a CPA.

Selling first gives you certainty about your budget and proceeds but may leave you needing interim housing; buying first avoids moving twice but risks carrying two homes. Tools like home-sale contingencies, rent-backs, and bridge financing help bridge the gap. The right choice depends on your finances and risk tolerance — we'll map it out before you list.

A CMA is an agent's pricing opinion based on comparable sales to help you set a list price. An appraisal is a licensed appraiser's formal valuation, usually ordered by the buyer's lender to protect the loan. They can differ, and a low appraisal on your buyer's side can require renegotiation — we prepare for that possibility when pricing.

Start by getting pre-approved so you know your budget, then explore first-time-buyer programs and down payment assistance through SC Housing and the CFPB's buying-a-home resources. Budget for closing costs and coastal insurance, not just the down payment. Lean on your agent and lender to explain each step — there are no dumb questions when it's your first time.

Eligible veterans, active-duty service members, and some surviving spouses can use a VA loan for $0 down, no PMI, and competitive terms. VA loans have their own appraisal and minimum property requirements, and often require a termite/CL-100 inspection in South Carolina. With military communities across the Lowcountry, VA financing is common here — your lender confirms eligibility via your Certificate of Eligibility.

New construction involves builder contracts (which differ from resale contracts), design selections, timelines that can slip, and builder warranties. The builder's on-site rep represents the builder, so having your own agent — disclosed at your first visit — protects your interests. Always get an independent inspection even on a new home. Confirm what's included versus an upgrade before you sign.

A foreclosure is a lender-owned (or auctioned) property, often sold as-is with limited disclosure and sometimes condition issues. A short sale is when the seller owes more than the home's worth and needs lender approval to sell for less — which can make timelines long and unpredictable. Both can offer value but require patience and realistic expectations; go in informed and inspect carefully.

Inherited property often must clear probate before it can be sold, and multiple heirs may need to agree. There can be tax advantages, like a stepped-up cost basis that may reduce capital gains — a real benefit worth understanding. Probate and tax rules are specific and consequential here, so confirm the process with a licensed attorney and a CPA before listing.

Heirs' property is land passed down without a will, so many descendants own undivided shares as tenants in common — common in parts of South Carolina, including Gullah/Geechee communities. It can complicate selling, financing, or clearing title, and historically has left families vulnerable to forced 'partition' sales. South Carolina adopted protections under the Uniform Partition of Heirs Property Act. The USDA offers heirs' property resources. This is a legal matter — involve an attorney early.

A divorce sale adds legal and emotional layers: how proceeds are divided, who has authority to sign, and timing all flow from your divorce agreement or court orders. An agent can keep the transaction neutral and professional, but the terms come from your legal process. Coordinate closely with your attorney so the sale aligns with the settlement.

Yes, but the lease usually survives the sale, so the buyer may inherit the tenant and must honor the existing lease terms. Showings require proper notice, and whether the buyer wants it vacant or tenant-occupied (as an investment) shapes the deal. South Carolina landlord-tenant rules apply — confirm specifics with an attorney, and plan showings respectfully around the tenant.

Review the HOA/condo documents carefully: dues, rules, financial reserves, any pending special assessments, rental restrictions, and litigation. In coastal condos, ask specifically about master insurance, wind/flood coverage, and reserve funding for storm-related repairs. Budget the monthly dues into affordability. We build a document-review period into the contract so you can walk if the numbers or rules don't work.

Land buying centers on zoning, permitted uses, access/easements, utilities, soil and septic feasibility (a 'perc' test), wetlands, and flood/coastal setback rules — all of which affect whether and how you can build. Financing land differs from a home mortgage too. Due diligence is everything; confirm buildability with the county and relevant agencies before you commit.

Run the numbers on rental income, vacancy, maintenance, management, insurance, and property taxes — remember South Carolina assesses non-owner-occupied property at the higher 6% ratio, and coastal insurance can be steep. Check local short-term-rental rules, which vary sharply by city and community. Financing usually requires more down and reserves. Confirm tax treatment of rental income and depreciation with a CPA.

Lenders often require a larger down payment and charge slightly different terms for a second home, and it won't qualify for South Carolina's 4% primary-residence tax rate — expect the higher 6% assessment. Coastal insurance and flood coverage matter even more on a property you're not there to monitor. Also confirm any community rules on rentals if you plan to offset costs. Talk to a CPA about the tax picture.

Relocation buyers benefit from area orientation (neighborhoods, commutes, schools you research yourself, flood exposure), virtual tours, and tight coordination of timelines from afar. We can handle much of the process remotely and cluster in-person visits efficiently. Getting pre-approved with a lender familiar with South Carolina closings smooths the long-distance logistics.

Plan for your down payment (0-20%+ depending on loan), closing costs (commonly a few percent of the price), prepaids like taxes and insurance, inspection and appraisal fees, and moving costs. Coastal buyers should also budget the first year of flood and wind insurance. Your lender's Loan Estimate gives you a personalized total early — review it carefully.

From starting your search to closing varies widely, but once you're under contract, a financed purchase usually closes in about 30-45 days and cash faster. The search itself can take days to months. Getting pre-approved and clear on priorities up front is the biggest lever on speed.

Broadly: buyers cover their loan costs, appraisal, inspections, and their share of prepaids; sellers cover their commission, deed preparation, and their prorated taxes. Many items — closing-cost credits, the CL-100, home warranty, buyer-agent compensation — are negotiable in the contract. The settlement statement from the attorney lays out exactly who paid what.

Beyond the mortgage: property taxes, homeowners insurance (plus flood and wind/hail on the coast), any HOA/condo dues, utilities, and maintenance (budget roughly 1% of the home's value per year as a rule of thumb). Coastal homes can carry higher insurance and upkeep due to salt air and storm exposure. Factor all of it into affordability, not just the payment.

For buyers, closing costs commonly run a few percent of the purchase price, though it varies with your loan, points, and prepaids. Sellers' costs are dominated by commission and their prorated taxes. Your Loan Estimate (buyer) and net sheet (seller) give real numbers for your deal — always work from those rather than a generic percentage.

Request and read the covenants/CC&Rs, bylaws, rules, current budget, reserve study, recent meeting minutes, dues history, and any pending or recent special assessments or litigation. These reveal how well-run and well-funded the community is. Build a review period into your contract so you can back out if something concerning surfaces.

A special assessment is an extra charge HOA members must pay for a big expense the reserves don't cover — a new roof, storm damage, or major repairs — and it can be substantial. Underfunded reserves raise the odds of one. In coastal condos, storm-related assessments are a real risk, so ask about reserve health and recent/upcoming projects before buying.

Lenders evaluate the whole project's health for a condo — owner-occupancy ratios, budget, reserves, insurance, litigation, and whether any single owner controls too many units — under 'warrantability' standards. A non-warrantable condo can limit loan options or require special financing. Confirm warrantability early with your lender so a condo you love doesn't stall at underwriting.

Ask what the HOA's master policy covers versus what you must insure yourself (an HO-6 unit policy), and specifically how wind and flood are handled at the building level. Coastal condos can have coverage gaps or high deductibles that pass through to owners after a storm. Understanding the layers up front prevents a nasty surprise after a claim.

Yes — many HOAs and condo associations cap or ban rentals, especially short-term/vacation rentals, and rules vary widely across Lowcountry communities. If you plan to rent (long-term or as a vacation property), verify the rules in writing before you buy. Local government short-term-rental ordinances may add another layer of restriction on top of the HOA's.

Independently verify all wiring instructions by phone using a known, trusted number — never one from an email — before you send anything, and be extremely skeptical of any last-minute change to instructions. Scammers spoof attorneys and agents convincingly. If in doubt, stop and call. The FBI's guidance on real estate wire fraud is worth reading before closing.

This is the single most important safety step in a home purchase — one wrong wire can cost your entire down payment.

Watch for anyone asking you to send earnest money by gift card, cryptocurrency, or an unverified wire — legitimate earnest money goes to the closing attorney or brokerage escrow with verifiable instructions. Rental scams often list real homes at too-good prices, demand a deposit before you can see inside, and pressure you to act fast. Verify who you're dealing with, and never pay to 'hold' something sight unseen.

Prices far below comparable homes, refusal to allow a normal showing, pressure to pay quickly, or an 'owner' who's conveniently out of the country are classic red flags. Cross-check the listing through your agent and official sources. If someone rushes or resists normal verification, slow down — legitimate transactions can withstand scrutiny.

Share sensitive documents (pay stubs, bank statements, IDs) only through your lender's or attorney's secure portals, not plain email. Be wary of unsolicited calls or emails asking to 'update' your loan or closing details. After closing, watch for 'deed scam' letters offering to sell you an overpriced copy of your own deed — you don't need to pay for that.

Pressure to skip inspections, waive protections you don't understand, or move money without verification; disclosures that seem incomplete; or communications with mismatched email addresses or urgent tone changes. Trust your instincts and lean on your agent and attorney — their job is to catch these. When something feels off, pausing to verify almost never costs you the deal, but ignoring it can cost you dearly.